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Global·FEATURES·Most Successful Women20.05.2024

Kai Yin Lo: Designing A Cross-Cultural Life

Kai Yin Lo, celebrated for establishing one of Asia's earliest global brands, has not only showcased her innovative drive and lasting impact on the art and design realms but also revolutionized our approach to design across various cultures. Her transition from Hong Kong's bustling streets to a worldwide platform is a testament to her global reach and influence. As one of our JESSICA Most Successful Women awardees this year, Kai Yin Lo has shared profound insights and experiences shaping her illustrious career as a designer, cultural historian, and vanguard of cross-cultural artistic exchange. Her legacy and the innovative design techniques she imparts to future generations underscore her pivotal role in enriching the global art and design landscape.

Driven by financial necessity, Kai Yin Lo has harnessed her profound historical knowledge to create distinctive and culturally significant designs.

According to Kai Yin Lo, the need to succeed financially was the main factor in her decision to pursue a career in design: "Success was crucial for my survival." With a profound grounding in history gained from her academic pursuits, Lo found herself uniquely positioned to translate her scholarly insights into tangible artistic expressions. "And how I became a designer was really through needs because I needed to make a living," she reflects, explaining how the depth of her historical knowledge became a wellspring for innovation, eventually earning her accolades for making 'history wearable,' as noted by the Financial Times.

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Kai Yin Lo, JESSICA Magazine

This practical inception of her career, rooted in economic necessity, led to a passionate exploration of the value and relevance of historical art forms in contemporary design, shaping her unique artistic perspective. "I was trying to make a living, and then I realized that I knew something worthwhile. There was worth in what I was doing. You must believe in what you are doing to handle it well and excel at it," Lo shares. She continues, "I studied exclusively Chinese history in Hong Kong. Later, in the UK, I initially focused on English history at school." She further explained how her academic background laid the foundation for her career: "Upon being admitted to Cambridge, I chose to specialize in European and English medieval history as my subject." She believes that educational choices are crucial in shaping her design philosophy.

Kai Yin Lo's innovation in the design field is marked by her use of underappreciated materials like semi-precious stones. Due to her global experiences and historical knowledge, she has carved out a new market in international arenas.

Kai Yin Lo's diverse experiences in different cultures have greatly influenced her innovative design approach. She encountered a treasure trove of semi-precious stones in the heart of Asia's world city, Hong Kong, largely overlooked and undervalued amidst the declining ivory trade. This discovery ignited her creative spirit as she recognized an opportunity to harness these vibrant yet underutilized resources. "Because I discovered semi-precious stones from Hong Kong... At that time, the ivory trade declined. So skilled workers can be convinced to work in another medium. Semi-fresh stones," Lo recounts, describing the pivotal moment that led to a significant shift in her artistic endeavors. By incorporating these stones into her creations, she introduced a novel creative medium and sparked a trend that reverberated globally, influencing designers worldwide and setting new standards in jewelry creation. "It was... I was looking for something to do to interpret; you could say that I started the trend of semi-precious stones," she explains. Through her visionary use of these materials, Lo crafted pieces that spoke a universal language of beauty and innovation, appealing to an international audience and cementing her place in the annals of design history.

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"Connecting means making the other side—meaning my design—understandable and commercial. You know, they need to understand it, like it, and then buy it. At that time, I needed to make a living because there was a big change in my family, and I needed to support myself.”

Kai Yin Lo's exploration of art, design, and culture through historical lenses was closely linked to her academic background and practical experiences, shaping her comprehensive understanding of design's societal significance.

Kai Yin Lo's deep passion for history and her diverse experiences across continents form the foundation of her engagement with cultural history, shaping her comprehensive understanding of design's societal significance. This integration is reflected in her art and design work. Following her studies in European history, Lo was determined to delve into Chinese history, blending her fresh insights into her artistic endeavors. "I'm a historian, a European historian, and I returned and decided to learn about Chinese history. By learning, you acquire things that are relatively available and affordable. And that was my way of learning, for only me," she explains.

"It's a moment in time that made it possible"

Her approach was strategic and thoughtful. She aimed to make Chinese culture relatable and appealing to a global audience, starting with the markets in the United States and expanding to Europe and Japan. "I made Chinese culture easier to understand in application for the Western audience. Because my first market was the United States, the second market was Europe, and the UK's third market was Japan," Lo reflects.

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Kai Yin Lo initially faced challenges in organizing cross-cultural exhibitions. Still, these challenges eventually led to the successful promotion of a better global understanding and appreciation of Chinese art and design. These exhibitions bridged cultural gaps and introduced Chinese modern art to a broader audience, enhancing its recognition and acceptance on the global stage.

In arranging exhibitions like the well-received Wu Guanzhong showcase at the British Museum and Hong Kong's official design display at the World Expo in Shanghai, Kai Yin Lo overcame significant cultural challenges, such as navigating differing artistic traditions and logistical hurdles, like coordinating international shipments of valuable artworks. A particularly challenging aspect was persuading traditional institutions such as the British Museum to showcase modern, interpreted designs that diverged from their usual repertoire. Reflecting on her approach, Lo shares, "The British Museum initially hesitated to embrace interpreted designs... However, I gained access to the museum through my prior use of the reading room at London University, fostering relationships with the curators," showcasing her adeptness at navigating institutional standards to realize her vision.

"My collection at the British Museum came about because I used the reading room at London University. I became friendly with the curators."

The result was profound: "It was incredible feedback because it was a thunderous approval of something already panting to be recognized." This encapsulates the global acclaim for exhibitions that introduced underexposed dimensions of Chinese art, such as the works of Wu Guanzhong, whose international exposure had been limited.

She reflects on her experiences of overcoming cultural and logistical obstacles in her career, showcasing her resilience and determination.

Kai Yin Lo's insights into resilience and success stem from her diverse experiences in design, academia, and cultural diplomacy, which she generously shares to inspire emerging talents with a wide range of expertise.

"You have to believe in what you are doing to handle and to be good at it."

Further elaborating on the need for tenacity, she remarks, "You just have to stalk and go on. So, fasten your belt." This determination is particularly pertinent in dealing with discerning markets such as Chinese collectors, who demand nothing less than perfection: "The Chinese collectors would appreciate it much more, but they wouldn't appreciate a bee with two bits. They wanted the complete bee."

"Seize every opportunity. Be dogged. But how long can you be dogged? If you've been dogged for two weeks or one month, you know, don't just think of yourself; allow yourself to be tested. But remember, competition is key now," Lo counsels, highlighting the relentless nature of the design industry, where resilience is critical to overcoming ongoing challenges.

"It is a matter of creating something attractive, appealing, and colorful. Then you need to get the stores to sell it."

Reflecting on her groundbreaking work, she attributes her success to the affordability and curiosity her pieces evoke, marking a new era in jewelry creation. This forward-thinking strategy not only captivated a diverse audience but also left an indelible mark in the fiercely competitive realm of design, revolutionizing the perception of jewelry as wearable art and paving the way for future designers to explore cultural fusion.

Written by: Jeremy Chapnick
Photos by: Raymond Chan